Hangzhou casts an enchanting spell. Marco Polo marveled that it was "the most beautiful and elegant place in the world" and a popular Chinese saying boasts "above there is heaven, below there is Hangzhou." The serene loveliness of Hangzhou's West Lake (Xi Hu) and the surrounding hills remain spellbinding, even if realities of modern life—such as massive crowds of camera-happy tourists—occasionally intrude. Millions of tourists visit every year to admire Hangzhou's graceful willows, tranquil waters and expansive gardens. If you can, shoot for a weekday visit to avoid the inevitable weekend crowds.
Hangzhou has known centuries of wealth and high culture, profiting from the region's famous silks and teas. Hangzhou grew in political importance during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279 AD) after Jurchen invaders from present-day Mongolia ransacked the Song capital Kaifeng. Emperor Gaozong (1107-1187 AD) fled to Hangzhou, where he set up his new capital. The imperial court's patronage boosted Hangzhou's importance as a commercial hub and brought China's best scholars, artists and poets to the city.
The healthy silk and tea trade expanded during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD). The 1,000 km Grand Canal linked the city to distant Beijing and to ocean trade routes to Japan, Korea, Southeast Asia and the Middle East. The city's population grew in number and wealth. Merchants and officials led lives of leisure, building extravagant homes and pleasure boats for West Lake. The city's fame brought curious visitors throughout the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and Emperors Kangxi (1662-1722) and Qianlong (1711-1799) held court in Hangzhou, the latter building a palace on Solitary Island (Gu Shan) and an imperial library.
Hangzhou suffered greatly during the Taiping Rebellion and was largely reduced to rubble after being taken by the rebels in 1861 and retaken imperial armies two years later. A little over a century later, many remaining monuments were lost during the upheaval of the Cultural Revolution, requiring major reconstruction to return the city to something like its former glory. Today, much of the city has been restored and it's easily one of the most popular tourist spots in the country.
Hangzhou experiences four distinct seasons with cold winters (average temperature of 3º C (37º F)) and hot summers (average of 29º C (84º F)). Summers are rainy through May-July and can grow exceedingly humid. Whatever the weather, Hangzhou paints a pretty picture. In the winter, light snow blankets stone brides and walkways and spring and summer bring blooms of flowers. The best time to visit Hangzhou is in the fall, when the weather cools and the rains decrease.
